Fashion Maketh Woman? The Verdict

After getting all excited about the TEDWomen lectures in the US later this year, I reminded myself that I should really fill you all in on a fabulous debate I attended last month right here in London town!

Intelligence Squared is a global forum that believes in ‘knowledge through debate’ and hosts fantastic evenings of contest and conversation. I attended their Fashion Maketh Woman debate at Westminster’s Methodist Hall, full of excitement and nerves (had I worn the right thing?) and not knowing what to expect.

The title was a bit baffling, and I was baffled further still when I was accosted by a woman with a clip board as I entered. “Are you FOR or AGAINST the motion?” she asked, to which I felt a bit too stupid to be in attendance as I muttered “Err, I don’t think I understand the motion.” Of course (ahem) it was all just a question of semantics; “Do you think fashion makes women what they are?” the helpful woman spelt it out for me, “God no!” I answered and hurried inside to find out I was in the minority; the pre-vote showed 335 For the motion, 318 against and 256 ‘Don’t Knows’.

Paula Reed, looking exquisite in pre-collection AW10 Oscar de la Renta, was the first to take to the stage. Arguing in defense of fashion (well, she is Grazia’s style director after all!) she put it to the audience that “Fashion is the clearest expression of all the most fundamental things in life” and that it is “A delicious relief in a dirty world.” Speaking of her humble background and wide-eyed delight for all things fashion, Reed came off as very like-able and relate-able - quite different to how she has appeared at times when judging on Project Catwalk!

Describing those who focus on the negative elements of fashion as “Purse-lipped puritans” she went on to say “They set themselves up as high-minded – and often as feminists – but there’s a hint of misogyny in there, I think.”

Still, Reed did accept that fashion isn’t always without fault; “For the rise of ‘porno-chic’ fashion, fashion editors have come under fire” she said. Also, on the topic of fashion’s relationship with eating disorders, Reed talked about how she had sat on the board of a recent model health enquiry and that all she was sure of was “how many different opinions” there were on the matter and that thin models will soon be going “the way of the padded shoulder”. I admired her bravery for addressing these areas of concern, but it still felt like Reed missed the point somewhat by pointing to the rise in obesity as proof that fashion imagery doesn’t affect how people see themselves.

Ultimately, Reed reminded us that fashion can be a joy and, whether we choose to partake in trends or not, we are always making our own satorial statements. “Looking around this room,” Reed said, gleefully,  ”I see lots and lots of Grazia fashion pages from over the past 6 months… you’re looking good, by the way.”

Up next was Stephen Bayley and, although he was arguing against the fashion industry, I just knew I wouldn’t enjoy his speech quite so much.

This is because Bayley is the author of Woman As Design, a book that angered feminists (including Germaine Greer) upon its release last year due to its portrayal of idealised and objectified women. Now, I may have been tempted to pick up the book (if it didn’t cost a whopping £50!) because maybe, just maybe, it might offer an interesting glance at how women’s bodies have influenced design and how beauty standards have transformed over time. I lost any inclination to do just that, however, upon reading Bayley’s Guardian rebuttal Why My Book Is Not Sexist in which he seriously described Radio 4’s Woman’s Hour as ‘a sexist ghetto’ and asked why there was no Man’s Hour. Pssch.

As an intelligent and eloquent speaker, Bayley came out with some cracking quotes (most of which have been included in the ‘best bits’ IQ2 video). He expressed his bemusement at an industry that demands innovation without need and asks people to imitate it without reason. This “cycle of utter folly” also adds to the confused gaze in which we view women’s bodies, Bayley asserted; “Some moments parts of the woman’s body are sterilised and at other times eroticised.”

Still, any great points Bayley made became tainted upon his argument that, whilst the fashion industry says “Buy this and you will look more attractive”, most women would actually look more attractive if they “got a tan, trained for a marathon and lost 30 pounds.” Sorry, Bayley, but you lost my vote right there.

Finance executive turned fashion designer Britt Lintner was keen to tell us how her clothing range for career-minded women has aided them in their professional lives; “We wanted women to celebrate their differences and their individuality,” Lintner said, “Whether a size 6 or a size 16, we’re all about real women.”

She went on to tell the audience, through the aid of Power-Point and a rather fun collection of old photos, how she had used clothing to help her compete as her career evolved. “The psychological impact is undeniable,” Lintner said, stating that clothes give you “the confidence to strive for whatever you want.”

Good points aside, Lintner did herself no favours by pulling out a quote from Margaret Thatcher to back up her points. Good though the quote was, you could almost hear the clenching of teeth in the auditorium as Lintner described Thatcher as “the greatest working woman in the whole world.”

As I had expected, Turner Prize winning artist Grayson Perry was a fantastic speaker. Passionate to the point of anger, Perry brought up many good points about the waste and exploitation ingrained in parts of the fashion industry. “Fashion maketh woman?” Perry all but spat, “I don’t agree with that… Fashion maketh money, fashion maketh waste, fashion maketh carbon, fashion maketh lazy!”

Talking about trends, Perry stated that “The world’s biggest industry is set up to make you dissatisfied with what you’ve just bought” and he wondered whether trend-followers ever actually considered what suited them. He also speculated whether “If this machine of power didn’t exist, would people be more creative?”

Wearing a dress designed for him by a CSM fashion student, Perry lamented the speed at which fashion runs; “It hoovers up ideas and then spits them out half chewed.” He also touched on the throw-backs to colonialism that fashion seems to parade around every so often like an embarrassing souvenir; “This year we’re doing Tibetan…but what if you’re actually Tibetan?”

Lastly, Perry likened the Hot or Not pages of fashion glossies as “The judgement of the playground” and went as far as saying that the fashion industry as a whole is the industrialisation of playground cool; “And cool,” Perry chided us, “is the new straight.”

Madeline Levy, editor-in-Chief of fashion and arts magazine Bon International, was last to speak about the merits of fashion. Throughout the debate speakers on both sides of the fence had agreed that, whilst fashion can come under fire, style is all-well-and-good. Levy, however, put it to the audience that style doesn’t push boundaries or move aesthetic levels in the same way that fashion does. Fashion, Levy said, is an “art form which concerns us all” and it can even allow us to dress up and above the positions we were born into.

After Perry’s attack on the fashion industry, Levy came back with the statement that “The pharmaceutical industry is pretty corrupt but that doesn’t make medicine bad.” She also agreed with Paula Reed, saying that those who hold disdain for fashion may also hold disdain for women; “When men are passionate about something it’s a hobby. When women are passionate about fashion, they’re vain.”

I had been really looking forward to hearing Susie Orbach, author of Fat Is A Feminist Issue, speak against fashion – but her melancholy, emotionally centred speech didn’t really sit well after the passionate demonstrations, peppered with facts, that had gone before.

“You’re ten years old,” Orbach started, “your breasts are little buds. You check out your pose in the mirror, just as you’ve seen Mum do. You’ve seen her sigh in the mirror when she doesn’t quite fit. Still, she’s your yummy mummy.”

Orbach’s imagining was based in the realities she had collected for her latest book, Bodies, and yet the approach felt rather ill-at-ease in a debate setting. I much preferred her speech which followed on from the personal intro, as it felt more effective. “Ask a woman what she’d like to change about her body and she will have a list,” Orbach stated, “Ask her what she likes and she will struggle.”

After all speakers were heard and we were called to vote again, there was still confusion as to what we were actually voting for. If we are FOR or AGAINST fashion, are we talking ‘Fashion’ as an industry (and all that entails) or are we talking clothing, style…fashion as art?

I know that I would like to see the fashion industry grow in more ethically and environmentally friendly ways; it needs scrutinising and it needs to take responsibility. I also know that I welcome it as a creative and empowering force on an individual level. But ‘Fashion Maketh Woman’? I don’t think so. It’s not that gendered – everyone is affected by fashion and trends! Plus, women aren’t one dimensional – it takes more than fashion to make a woman!

A new final vote was taken with the results of 293 For the motion, 468 Against the motion and a nervous 44 ‘Don’t Knows’… how nice to no longer be in the minority! Still, if it had come down to voting only on the basis of speakers, I would have voted for the fashion clan! They came off as much more positive, open to change and eager to confront fashion’s problems, whilst all the while being non-judgemental and fun!

Watch IQ2’s Best Bits from the debate here and find out more about their Autumn season of debates here.

More to read:

MsAfropolitan’s thoughts on Fashion Maketh Woman

Mutton’s Guide To Fashion’s take on the debate

Bust Magazine reviews the Fashion As Empowerment exhibition at the Met

By: Sarah Barnes, 24.07.2010 | Comments (0)
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Register for the Feminism In London conference

I’ve just heard the good news (from The F Word blog) that the Feminism In London one-day conference is now open for registration! The programme is full of interesting speakers and plenty of workshops to choose from (including ‘Young, old feminists: Getting to know each other’, ‘Confronting privilege, contributing to change, for men only’ and ‘A space to recover for women of colour only’)

It’s great news to hear that this event is completely child friendly, with a creche (run by the London Pro-Feminist Men’s Network) and relevant workshops for 12-18 year olds. It’s also good to know that trans women are welcome at the women-only workshops and trans men are welcome at the men-only workshop.

You will need to get your skates on to ensure you get a place on the workshop of your choice, so register here asap! You can find out more about the event at the FIL website, and keep up to date until the event via the FIL twitterfeed.

By: Sarah Barnes, 11.07.2010 | Comments (0)
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Craftacular Spectacular!

Praise be for summer! Because, with the summer, come the craft fairs… and all the bunting, home-made cupcakes and fizzy pop that goes with them. And, when it comes to craft fairs, you don’t get much better than the Bust Craftacular!

Taking place this coming Saturday, the Bust Craftacular will boast over 60 stalls of the coolest hand-crafted goodies – not a craftastrophe in sight! If you’re not much of a passive craft consumer then you can get in on the action too; The Make Lounge will be holding fascinator workshops, you can try your hand at screen printing your very own tote bag with Mr Wingate, and Tatty Devine will be encouraging customers to colour in their own jewellery.

If all this is starting to sound a bit too well-behave then not to worry! There will be a range of DJs throughout the event to whip even the most conservative crafter into a frenzy and the really energetic can even learn the Lindy Hop and Jitterbug in classes from the Swing Patrol!

Admission is just £2, so hurry down this Sunday to York Hall, E2, on Saturday. The first 100 in get a free goody bag!

By: Sarah Barnes, 06.07.2010 | Comments (0)
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School’s In For Summer!

With the summer finally making itself apparent, the thoughts of many are turning to sun, sea and sand… but for others it’s the perfect opportunity to geek out about all things feminist! UK Feminista’s Summer School is a free, two day London event incorporating discussions and workshops that will invigorate and inspire all those striving for a more gender equal world.

With speakers including Pragna Patel of Southall Black Sisters, Jess McCabe of the F Word and journalists Kira Cochrane and Hannah Pool, the line-up looks top-notch and the workshops and seminars are in much needed areas, such as ‘Why climate change is a feminist issue’, ‘Men and masculinity’ and ‘Promoting diversity within feminist groups’.

So, whilst you are planning your summer get-aways, make sure you devote the weekend of July 31st – August 1st to re-educating and re-connecting with your feminism.

Full event details here.

By: Sarah Barnes, 28.06.2010 | Comments (0)
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Ladyfest Ten Festival Dates Confirmed

Exciting news today as Ladyfest Ten confirm the dates for the festival! Get out your diaries now and mark down the 12th, 13th and 14th of November 2010, because something tells me this is going to be a fantastic event…

Ladyfest Ten will be celebrating 10 whole years of Ladyfests – the global, grassroots festival that celebrates and promotes female creativity. The three day event will be taking place around various North London venues, including The Relentless Garage.

Confirmed acts and ticketing details will not be broadcast until next month, but the organisers are promising an exciting and diverse programme of female-fronted music, arts, film, literature, comedy, craft, workshops and even sport! If you want to keep up to date with all the details as they unfold, then make sure you follow the Ladyfesters on their Facebook andTwitter pages.

Oh, and if you want to get involved, don’t worry – it’s not too late! The next Ladyfest Ten meeting will be at 7.30pm on Wednesday 30th June 2010 at the Southbank Centre. See the website for more details.

By: Sarah Barnes, 23.06.2010 | Comments (0)
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Swallows & Amazons: Life Drawing Tonight!

Life drawing. For some reason, no matter how mature you thought you were at the time, it was the one class at school that was sure to raise a titter (ahem). But, now that I’m older and wiser, I miss the smell of charcoal, the thrill of pencil on paper and, yes, the opportunity to draw a naked model. Student giggles aside, I used to absolutely adore life-drawing classes – nothing beats it for developing your aesthetic ‘eye’ – but, now that I’m all grown up, I haven’t the first idea about where to go to partake in a some sketching of the nude form. Wow, I sound like a pervert…

It seems my search is over, though, as the lovely people at Storm In A Tea Cup have brought their Swallows & Amazons salon style classes to the capital – all to raise funds for Ladyfest Ten! I’m a little late to jump on the bandwagon (tonight is their penultimate class of the season) but better late than never, eh?  Especially when tonight’s class promises tattooed pin-up model Rayna Terror and dread-locked and body-painted Skye disrobing for drawing challenges set by The Great Cake Escape’s Cherry Bakewell.

The class tonight will take place from 8-10pm (email to reserve a space) at The Victoria pub, Mile End, E3 5TH. It’s only £6 in (with every penny going to Ladyfest Ten) but, thanks to Cass Art, drawing materials will be provided. There’s even a chance that your original art work might be featured in an exhibition as part of Ladyfest Ten festival in November! Just no sniggering at the back, okay?

(Image taken from Storm In A Tea Cup’s photo gallery)

By: Sarah Barnes, 22.06.2010 | Comments (0)
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Fashion Maketh Woman: The IQ2 Debate

Donning my glad-rags to celebrate the Reclaiming The F-Word book launch, I couldn’t help but have second (and third, and fourth) thoughts; Is a  satin, sapphire-blue pencil skirt and a customised Kylie tee shirt really what I should be wearing to a feminist book launch? Luckily, I know that feminists are a friendly, fun and understanding lot… which is why I went along in exactly my original choice of clothing and no-one gave two hoots about my appearance!

Still, the fact that I even raised the question with myself says a lot about feminism’s difficult relationship with fashion. Personally, as a feminist who writes about fashion, it’s a battle that rages constantly in my consciousness. I was immensely glad to hear, then,  about Intelligence Squared’s upcoming debate Fashion Maketh Woman, featuring an incredible speaker panel that will include Fat Is A Feminist Issue author Susie Orbach, artist Grayson Perry and Grazia’s Style Director Paula Reed.

With such diverse and passionate speakers, it looks set to be a really lively and intelligent debate! As the blurb says on the IQ2 website;

Woman is born free, but everywhere is fashion’s slave. Her choices are an illusion: the fashion companies and magazines dictate her purchases to her. She feels compelled to own the latest must-have handbag, believes the key to happiness is the new bondage boot; they’ve told her she’s worth it and without her fashion fix she feels worthless. This, at least, is the story told by those who scoff at fashion. But isn’t that just sour drapes? Isn’t it rather the case that the world of fashion defines the spirit and mood of the age? That the brilliant designers in the fashion houses bring vim and vigour to an otherwise pedestrian world? And that those who somehow think they’re above it all just end up looking drab and dull?

As per usual, I’m firmly perched on the fence! Still, I’m really looking forward to being forcibly swung this way and that by the evening’s speakers. There’s only one thing on my mind until then… what outfit should I wear?

Fashion Maketh Woman takes place on Thursday, the 17th of June at the Methodist Central Hall Westminster. Doors open at 6pm and the debate is scheduled to finish at 8.30. Tickets are £25 (or half price for students) and can be bought here.

By: Sarah Barnes, 11.06.2010 | Comments (2)
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Who’s The Man?

If ever you needed proof that language is a hugely powerful tool in defining gender, you would only have to look as far as the title of Feministing founder Jessica Valenti’s book, He’s A Stud, She’s A Slut. But, whilst you may think men get off easily by being labelled Studs, Big Shots and Supermen, such grammatical expectations of men can weigh just as heavily as any negative names women are burdened with.

Don’t believe me? Then take a trip along to Who’s The Man, an installation at London’s Future Gallery of more than a 1000 hand painted enamel panels, each depicting a word or a phrase used to describe a ‘man’. Opening today, the exhibition of painstakingly produced typography is the work of Rudy de Belgeonne – who hopes the hundreds of screaming painted names will ’help the bewildered male plot his way through the gender landscape…’

And isn’t that all any of us are trying to do? Regardless of what gender we are, regardless of whether we’ve been described as a slut, a beast, a queer or a geezer, we are all surrounded by language that solidifies society’s expectations of us. We can all relate to those pressures; the put-downs and the put-upons, the stereotypes and the requests to conform to certain genders. That’s what makes Who’s The Man an exhibition that speaks to everyone… even if, quite simply, it just calls them names!

Who’s The Man runs until the 8th of June at The Future Gallery.

By: Sarah Barnes, 03.06.2010 | Comments (0)
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Childcare discussed in London this Wednesday at Feminist Fightback

The discussion of childcare takes centre stage at the next Feminist Fightback meeting, taking place this Wednesday the 12th. Open to all self-defining women, the meeting will focus around a political discussion of childcare and will include an update on the cuts to Hackney nurseries.

Feminist Fightback recommend that those intent on diving into the discussion take a little look at ‘The Power of Women and the Subversion of the Community’ by Mariarosa Dalla Costa and Selma James (1972), which you can read here. Hell, it’s worth a read even if you can’t make it to the meeting… always interesting to pick up old theory books! (or is that just me being a tad geeky?)

The meeting will take place from 7-9pm Wednesday 12th May at Oxford House (5 minutes walk from Bethnal Green tube) and all attendees are welcome to bring their children – although, you would like FF to organise a creche, you will need to email them in advance.

More details here.

By: Sarah Barnes, 10.05.2010 | Comments (0)
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Women, Power and Politics

As our minds are still firmly engaged with political matters (I am red eyed, in front of the election results on the telly at 2am, as I type this!) the timing is perfect to hear of an upcoming drama season at London’s Tricycle theatre entitled Women, Power and Politics.  The season, which looks at women in politics (from Elizabeth I, through the Suffragettes, the Thatcher years, Greenham Common, and up to women in politics today), is created by twelve playwrights and designed to ‘challenge, create debate and help to bring about change’.

The Women, Power and Politics season is scheduled to start on June the 4th but, in the mean-time, Tricycle are hoping to raise £25,000 for this very ambitious season. You can lend your support by donating online here. All donors will be acknowledged in the WPP programme and will receive invitations to special WPP events.

Find out more about Women, Power and Politics here.

By: Sarah Barnes, 07.05.2010 | Comments (0)
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